This is a fact: America has become a nation of coffee drinkers. While perhaps 30 years ago we existed on Folgers and the occasional limp cup of Dunkin’ Donuts, we now live in a caffeinated haze of organic Guatemalan blends, double shots, and venti white chocolate mint mochas. We have entered the realm of the espresso drink and find ourselves addicted to a morning mug of Jo and toasted bagel with expensive cream cheese.
We imagine ourselves to be très chic and European, sitting in our local fair-trade coffee shops, surrounded by avant-garde posters of the Louvre and antique advertisements featuring the Moulin Rouge. If you’re a real regular, you order the same thing every time—a non-fat latté or an espresso. You would never dream of drinking one of those sugary concoctions dreamt up to appease people who don’t like coffee (or worse, those damn decaf drinkers) and preteens. Starbucks? Never. You’re much too continental.
I am here to sadly report that America has been hoodwinked—in reality, the French café is nothing like our local favorites. The idea of a “coffee shop”—complete with a large variety of fancy-pants espresso drinks, overpriced fruit parfaits, and muffins that can clog arteries—doesn’t seem to exist. Instead of a room filled with the sound of furious typing, over-caffeinated college students, and the stench of stress and dark roasts, the café breathes relaxation. It seems to fit effortlessly into French life as a place for lunch with coworkers, an afternoon crème with friends, or maybe even for a light dinner. Laptops (especially PCs, God forbid!) are nowhere to be found; cigarettes are more common than pens. Around 6, the Lyonnais instinctively gravitate towards their corner cafés to gossip with friends, relax, and drink an espress (with maybe a dash of sugar)—not because the caffeine will last through another thesis page, but because it is part of their daily routine.
I love the simplicity—no frills, no flavors. And while I occasionally miss my non-fat no-foam latte, the café is perfect the way it is—4 sips of fresh, strong coffee.
NOTE: However, if you are looking for a more "coffee shop" atmosphere in Lyon (while still maintaining a French profile), I highly recommend Café du Bout du Monde—with good coffee, wifi, and excellent music, its calm and slightly indie vibe is hard to beat. There are even a few laptops out to set your American workaholic tendencies at ease. However, it is still without a doubt a French café, and seems to be favored by many of the young Croix-Rousse professionals.