4. A Peek into Lyon's Past

After a brief chocolate-buying mission to Croix-Rousse (I swear it must have the highest chocolaterie-per-capita in the world), we crossed the Saône for a visit to the Musée Gadagne, Lyon’s famed history and puppet museum. Built for the wealthy merchant family Gadagne in the 16^th century, the architecture itself is reason to visit. Stucco walls and spiral staircases surround you; stained glass windows provide soft light (the ambience is wonderful, though my camera was not quite as impressed).

From the Gauls to the turmoil of the 20^th and 21^st centuries, the museum’s historical exhibit houses an impressive collection of artifacts, print, and furniture from throughout Lyon’s past. The maps of the city are especially fascinating: you can follow Lyon’s transformation from fortress to bustling trade center to modern ville. Of course, my personal favorites were the bedroom furnishings from the 17^th and 18^th centuries—though this may have been due to my need of strong coffee after a late night and a morning run.

A warning: somewhere around 1536, I was pretty overwhelmed. If you can, take two days to wander the musée, or stop for a drink or lunch break at the petit café located upstairs from the main gallery after the Renaissance. And if the history and artifacts aren’t enough to draw you to the Musée Gadange, its tranquil courtyard and rooftop garden provide an excellent place to stop and rest during a late-afternoon wander.

Note: all the museums in Lyon are free if you are under 26, so being a poor student is not an excuse to skip this excellent museum! The normal price is also quite reasonable—6 euros per visit, and 20 euros buys you an unlimited pass to all the musées in Lyon.

3. The Jacket

80 degrees (excuse me, 27°C) and not a cloud in the sky. It’s the perfect weather for my sundress and (thankfully European-looking) espadrilles, and yet I feel almost naked next to the women who pass me on the streets. After 3 days of this, I have come to realize why I feel so terribly underdressed. I lack the Jacket.

The Jacket is without doubt a necessity. Even in weather that makes me think longingly of swimsuits and crop tops, all (and I mean ALL) women over the age of fourteen seem to follow this innate rule: rain or shine, hot or cold, N’OUBLIEZ PAS LA VESTE. Blazers and short linen coats prevail, with the smattering of leather (making me smack myself for not bringing mine).

Luckily, this seems to be a current trend as well as a more general cultural rule (overdressing for the heat seems to be a theme in France—I can’t help but question a blazer and long pants AND a scarf in the summer). And being right around the corner from Zara and a plethora of other equally dangerous magazins, I have no doubt I too will soon n’oublie pas ma veste, even when I would rather eat sorbet in an ice bath to keep from overheating.

So when travelling in France, forget your scarves, ladies. In order to truly “fit”, Lyon demands the Jacket. Just don’t forget that extra layer of deodorant for when the heat hits.

2. Croix-Rousse

On the way to the Marché de la Croix-Rousse, we caught a glimpse of the bohemian neighborhood that gives this marché alimentaire its name.

Formerly home to the silk industry, Croix-Rousse (both hill and neighborhood) is located just north of the Place des Terreaux. Once you begin up the winding streets, the air changes—this is no longer the upscale Bellecour or tourist-filled Vieux Lyon. The funky, graffiti-decorated staircases that climb the steep slope are lined with eye-catching shops (some sketchier than others) and a “l’Eglise de Scientologie.”

At the top of Croix-Rousse, the Marché de la Croix-Rousse is both bigger and significantly less expensive than Saint-Antoine Célestins. Venders display colorful baskets, rugs and clothing in addition to the enormous selection of the normal market fare—fresh apricots, saucisson sec, and flowers so deliciously cheap you almost have to buy them. The overwhelmingly delicious scent of paella makes your stomach shout as people of all ages and their dogs search for the best deals of the day. Across the street, a steam-punk minstrel drum line grooves as kids dance and adults sway to the beat.

And while the shoe prices in the windows of the boutiques along Rue de la Republique might make you want to cry, comfort can be found in the fact that a baguette and a bottle of wine still add up to less than $6.

a side note of explanations

Hooray! The rest of the site is now somewhat up and running (meaning it looks slightly better than a trashcan and has content). Some explanations:

[recettes] A collection of recipes, some from my many trials (and errors…) and some from French friends who are also excellent cooks. I swear to put up only the truly delicious ones.

[petites choses] Delicate leather shoes, hidden gardens, flea market finds. Little, interesting things I find around Lyon.

[coups d’oeil] Glances of Lyon--a photo gallery.

1. Au Marché

First (non-jetlagged) day in Lyon! After the red-eye and plane food with which you could kill a cat, a truly therapeutic dinner of boeuf bourguignon was found at La Menthe, a café (dangerously) near our apartment. Vegetarianism is on hold for the moment—you really can’t stay in the gastronomical capital of the world and expect to easily turn up your nose at salade Lyonnaise and crepes filled with jambon and brie (not to mention this would be impossible because literally everything smells heavenly). And aren’t French cows notoriously happy anyway?

Today: le marché alimentaire Saint-Antoine Célestins, a daily market located on the Quai Saint Antoine. It was gloriously overwhelming—we had to keep from buying every kind of fresh fruit in sight, not to mention hundreds of cheeses and beautiful tarts and croissants. The product: a mushroom and leek quiche with fresh salad in the plans for dinner.

Unfortunately it was grey and rainy so no pictures yet, but I will post some soon!