On the way to the Marché de la Croix-Rousse, we caught a glimpse of the bohemian neighborhood that gives this marché alimentaire its name.
Formerly home to the silk industry, Croix-Rousse (both hill and neighborhood) is located just north of the Place des Terreaux. Once you begin up the winding streets, the air changes—this is no longer the upscale Bellecour or tourist-filled Vieux Lyon. The funky, graffiti-decorated staircases that climb the steep slope are lined with eye-catching shops (some sketchier than others) and a “l’Eglise de Scientologie.”At the top of Croix-Rousse, the Marché de la Croix-Rousse is both bigger and significantly less expensive than Saint-Antoine Célestins. Venders display colorful baskets, rugs and clothing in addition to the enormous selection of the normal market fare—fresh apricots, saucisson sec, and flowers so deliciously cheap you almost have to buy them. The overwhelmingly delicious scent of paella makes your stomach shout as people of all ages and their dogs search for the best deals of the day. Across the street, a steam-punk minstrel drum line grooves as kids dance and adults sway to the beat.
And while the shoe prices in the windows of the boutiques along Rue de la Republique might make you want to cry, comfort can be found in the fact that a baguette and a bottle of wine still add up to less than $6.