4. A Peek into Lyon's Past

After a brief chocolate-buying mission to Croix-Rousse (I swear it must have the highest chocolaterie-per-capita in the world), we crossed the Saône for a visit to the Musée Gadagne, Lyon’s famed history and puppet museum. Built for the wealthy merchant family Gadagne in the 16^th century, the architecture itself is reason to visit. Stucco walls and spiral staircases surround you; stained glass windows provide soft light (the ambience is wonderful, though my camera was not quite as impressed).

From the Gauls to the turmoil of the 20^th and 21^st centuries, the museum’s historical exhibit houses an impressive collection of artifacts, print, and furniture from throughout Lyon’s past. The maps of the city are especially fascinating: you can follow Lyon’s transformation from fortress to bustling trade center to modern ville. Of course, my personal favorites were the bedroom furnishings from the 17^th and 18^th centuries—though this may have been due to my need of strong coffee after a late night and a morning run.

A warning: somewhere around 1536, I was pretty overwhelmed. If you can, take two days to wander the musée, or stop for a drink or lunch break at the petit café located upstairs from the main gallery after the Renaissance. And if the history and artifacts aren’t enough to draw you to the Musée Gadange, its tranquil courtyard and rooftop garden provide an excellent place to stop and rest during a late-afternoon wander.

Note: all the museums in Lyon are free if you are under 26, so being a poor student is not an excuse to skip this excellent museum! The normal price is also quite reasonable—6 euros per visit, and 20 euros buys you an unlimited pass to all the musées in Lyon.